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Today is a 'sea day' as we prepare for arrival tomorrow in the Falklands. We are now out of the Magellan Strait/Beagle Channel/Drake Passage area and feeling the effects of the South Atlantic. I am doing a trip to Bluff Cove Lagoon. This is supposed to be the 'Innovative Shore Excursion of the Year 2009'. We will see. The trip involves minibus to Bluff Cove Farm. Then I transfer to a 4 x 4 vehicle, (Land Rover) for an 'exhilarating 30 minute off-road adventure to the Bluff Cove Lagoon penguin colonies. The drive is through stunning vistas but also, presumably involves white knuckles. When we get to our destination there will be awaiting us, I assume in full black and white uniforms, a colony of 1,000 Gentoo penguins and an 'expanding colony' of King Penguins. On the beach there will also be Magellanic penguins. There are also many other birds there. Other highlights of the trip include:
I think this may be one of the highlights of the trip and I am very much looking forward to it. I am sure that my camera will be red-hot to the touch by the end of the day. So far the weather on all the trip[s has been favorable but as my cruise companions are not coming on this one with me and they have certainly been good-luck talisman with the weather up until now, I am hoping that I can keep up the good weather record. I really don't care what it is like I have wet weather gear and will take it as it comes.
The trip above takes three hours and the ship is there from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. so as I start out first thing in the morning, I should be back by lunch time and able to spend some time in the town where there is a cathedral and 'English pubs'!!!
I am hoping, when I get back home and get a better internet connection either to update the daily blogs with relevant photos or otherwise just to publish one single blog with photos with descriptions underneath. As there are several of my cruise companions who are also taking photos, I hope that we will be able to exchange them at the end giving a complete record of the journey.
Slightly curiously for a vessel which is registered in the Marshall Islands which are as I recall a US dependent territory they seem to have a penchant for arranging 'British' events. The passenger complement consists of quite a number of Canadians, a few Dutch, some British but the majority, I would guess are Americans. There is an on board lecturer and also a husband and wife comedy/magic duo who are British so I am at a loss to explain why there should be such a British focus. Those who know me will hardly be surprised to learn that I have avoided these gatherings!!!
I woke up early and went on deck. It was misty and rainy but you could see the mountain peaks, snow-capped in the distance as well as the lights of Ushuaia. We approached the port slowly and berthed at the pier, the other side of which was occupied by a Maersk ship, the Maersk Funchal, loading what seemed to be empty containers.
We made an early start on our day's excursion and boarded buses which took us a few miles thought the countryside to the 'Train at the end of the World' This train, which was built in the early 1900's was originally used to service a high security prison which was established in Ushuaia in temporary buildings in 1896 with the permanent buildings being commissioned in 1920 after a building period of 18 years. The train commenced service in 1910 and the line was extended gradually until 1920. The establishment of the prison was mainly to give the area some purpose and upon the base of the prison. It was modeled on other 'escape proof prisons such as Devil's Island and Alcatraz. Ushuaia grew to a large town as it is today. The prison was in the town and the rail line was used to take the prisoners to the forests where they cut down wood for building and heating. The cruelty and rigors of being incarcerated in this part of the world and made to work under these circumstances are difficult to imagine. The prison was closed in 1947 but the rail line was preserved and re-opened as a tourist attraction in the 1990'sWe reached the station and boarded the small train (only 60 cm gauge track but pulled by a small steam engine. It was raining lightly but the scenery which is through what is now a National Park (established at least partly so as not to allow neighboring Chile to move the border between Chile and Argentina!!) was wonderful although there is ample evidence of the depredations of the prisoners with large areas of tree stumps. We crossed and re-crossed the Pipo River which is named after a convict who tried to escape from this (at the time) desolate place but whose frozen body was found later in the Beagle Channel after it was washed down the river that now bears his name. After a stop at a halfway station to see some waterfalls and get a better view of the landscape we continued on to the end of the line. Here we re-boarded the buses for a drive through the National Park. Our guide, Victoria, was extremely knowledgeable and interesting pointing out many things on the way such as:
Eventually we disembarked the bus and boarded a catamaran which took us out into the Beagle Channel. We had a lunch on board and then we ventured out in the channel. We wet along the coast and close by an island colony of king cormorants, another island with a colony of sea lions and then on to the 'Lighthouse at the end of the World' (this is what the Argentines call it as Cape Horn is in Chilean territory). The trip was in great weather and was a wonderful experience with the backdrop of the Andes Mountains.
When we arrived back at the ship a new vessel was also docked at the pier, one of Swan Hellenic's ships, the 'Minerva' which goes to the Antarctic. It had had an engine failure somewhere down south and had to proceed back here at severely reduced speed. The passengers all missed their flights home and were, I assume, less than pleased.
Everyone agreed that this was a really great day out. We disembarked the catamaran and went into town for a shopping expedition. Most of the souvenirs were of penguins and other miscellanea but not of great attractiveness. However, I bought a bottle of the local 'champagne' from the end of the world!! We also bought some local cheese, crackers and sausage so that we could have a small cocktail party before dinner which we will have in Joan and Bill's stateroom as it is rather larger than mine.
We did inquire again about a trip by helicopter to Cape Horn but this is not possible. I wish now that I had tried to do this from Punta Arenas. Cape Horn is Chilean territory and the Chileans and Argentineans are not the very best of friends. You CAN go to Cape Horn from Ushuaia but first they have to go to Chile to get a Chilean Air Force officer to accompany you. The lady in Ushuaia said that the two governments don't hate one another but they don't want to make life easy for each other either!!
Ushuaia is a medium sized but smart and thriving town which compares favorably with Punta Arenas its Argentine neighbor.
I do have some good photos of the trip and I know that my traveling colleagues do too and I hope we will be able to exchange them at the end. Then, when I get home with a decent internet connection, I will load a lot of them onto the blog.
At 6 p.m. this evening we leave for Port Stanley, Falklands Islands, (which the locals and all maps here in Argentina staunchly refer to as the Malvinas). All the maps have the Falklands, South Sandwich Islands and South Georgia claimed by Argentina. I suppose there can be no further negotiation until Lady Thatcher passes on, if even then. Still borders down here are jealously kept (see above regarding the National Park), and I suppose the richness of the fishing and the potential for oil and gas are as much to blame for this as anything.
We docked in Punta Arena, the southernmost port in Chile today at about 7 a.m. After breakfast we walked ashore, having no fixed excursions. The town is quite a thriving place with smart houses for the most part and a mixture of old and new buildings. The most striking feature of the town is the large number of banks, local and international. One or more on every block, so it seemed. Quite why there should be so many is not clear. There are a few old and interesting buildings including:
The Indians were decimated either by the greater fire-power of the Europeans or the disease which they brought with them and to which the Indians had no defense. This whole area has a most rich past with visits by as diverse a bunch of people as Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid who escaped here from North America when things got hot up there, a bandit named Red Pig, Darwin and Fitzroy, (who kidnapped some natives and took them back to UK), all sorts of eccentric Scots and British farmers and sheep farmers as well as the sundry seafarers who were wrecked in the area and stayed. The book 'In Patagonia" by Bruce Chatwin which I was advised to bring with me is a fascinating account of the author's wanderings in the region and of the people he met and the tales of their forebears.
We sailed for Ushuaia at 2 pm today and we will be there tomorrow. We have an excursion which takes us on the 'train to the end of the world' which should be interesting. I did try to see if I could arrange a helicopter or plane trip out over Cape Horn but it was not possible as the area is a military zone and permission needs to be obtained in advance. Pity, I wish now that I had investigated further earlier.
Last night we went in and out of the fjords and the weather changed almost by the hour. We had some quite violent squalls but now we are back inside the lee of the land and will remain there until we leave the Straits of Magellan and head out for the Falklands which is not for a few days yet. This morning the ship stopped for about an hour at the end of one fjord for us to view the Amalia Glacier which is very impressive but the weather was rather rainy and misty so, unfortunately it was not as beautiful as it might have been on a good day. Sitting on one of the upper decks is a small bird which must have got blown on board and is now wet and bedraggled. I hope that it will recover and fly away.
Today is a day steaming through the fjords but with no port calls. Tomorrow we arrive at Punta Arenas. I have no organized excursion there but perhaps a group of us will take an independent tour with a guide in a van. I guess we will then be back, temporarily in civilization and I can get my Blackberry to work again although I am not sure that this is such a boon!! I refuse to have it on aboard the ship as the charges are rather high and the service is very slow.
Every day there is a quiz and Michele is so competitive, she and Bernie have won several days running but I have to admit that I have connived by using my internet connection and Wikipedia to find out some of the answers. As the questions are all about Mediterranean countries and especially about Picasso and other artists, they are often not so easy to know as a matter of general knowledge.
Above are a couple of shots of my cabin (stateroom!!)
Well we have two full days at sea before Punta Arenas so it may be time to review the first impressions of the cruise experience. The ship is very pleasant although the décor is a bit old-fashioned for my taste. The crew are outstanding, very attentive polite, cheerful and professional. They come from every country on the globe it seems. Many from Romania, Philippines, Serbia, Italy, UK, Sweden, you name it. The food is also outstanding and a tendency to waistline growth could certainly apply if not careful. There are four or five places to eat. Toscana is an Italian restaurant, Polo a steak house, the Grand Dining Room which is a full restaurant type menu. Then there is the Terrace Café which does lighter food and tapas in the evening. There is also a burger and hot dog bar out on the deck.
The activities on board haven't changed much since I was at sea with bingo, bridge, dancing lessons and some evening cabaret. There are also some lectures on ports of call, wellness, and some cooking demonstrations. On deck there are the usual games as well as putting and that sort of thing which are not too easy to play in heavy seas. So far, I have not been tempted by any of these.
My cabin, (stateroom) is adequate if small but there are much larger and grander rooms on the ship. The 'owner's suites' of which there are several are extremely grand and I was invited to one of them for drinks and I must say that they are very nice with outside verandahs, butler service and all the trimmings. I still could not envisage myself wanting, needing or paying for such facilities but then I am a 'penny potato' traveler by nature and have had so much fun traveling 3rd Class that I am loathe to give it up.
Although food is all included there are some rather annoying small charges for soda and bottled water which I would have thought they could have supplied gratis. The internet connection is appallingly slow and very expensive. I have turned my Blackberry off whilst at sea and I will wait until I can get a shore station before I turn it on again. The data charges on board are ridiculous. So for those connected via Blackberry, you will get some black-out periods when I do not respond to any message directed to me. I am writing this blog in MS Word and then just posting it after I have finished. This is the best way not to use up all my expensive minutes on the internet connection.
The ship, for some reason has a very lumpy movement, perhaps because she is so short v her beam. Today there are moderately heavy seas and she is all over the place. We are out in the open Pacific but should be back in the fjords this afternoon and the seas will be calmer.
I think that this experiment of cruising may have been worth it for the parts of the world it reaches but I am not sure at this stage I would repeat the experience. This has nothing to do with the ship or the facilities which I am sure are as good as it gets. Those veteran cruisers on board (and there are a lot), all compliment the ship and the cruise in comparison with others they have taken. There are too long periods of inactivity, especially for someone who is not innately sociable.
I have met some spectacularly nice people on board and we have had some great times. Last night 7 of us met up for martinis before dinner and then we had dinner in the Italian restaurant which was a really fun time. Bernie and Michele's friends Joan and Bill Clark are very nice indeed. They are the ones on their 50th anniversary cruise. They are from California. We have also met up with Harvey and Barbara, also from California (they are in the owner's suite) and are both very funny – they have actually been married 55 years!! Their constant repartee is very amusing and they have stories by the hundred so our table was just one peal of laughter all through dinner. As a single, I have been a bit of a 'fifth wheel' but they have been very good at including me in things and that has certainly made the time pass. I have also met others, some from UK, a very interesting couple who have married each other twice!! Also a nice Australian chap who had been to sea years ago and with whom I could exchange experiences.
For me the ports are the places I want to get to and see so the sea passages in between are a bit tedious but necessary, I suppose.
We took a trip on a motor catamaran southward to Laguna San Rafael, starting at 0730 this morning. The trip took an hour or so winding amongst narrow channels with low land on the west side and the snow covered Andes on the east.
The glacier which is receding fast, due in part to global warming is pretty impressive and is nearly 2 kms wide when it enters the lagoon.
Hopefully these pictures give some idea of the scene with broken ice in the bay through which we threaded our way. Areas of the glacier and some of the small bergs were a very intense blue due to the refraction of the sunlight. The glacier if moving at 11m (about 35 ft), per day and although we did not see any, large pieces are frequently breaking off and floating into the bay.
There was, again no great abundance of wildlife although there was a swirl of water which our guide said was a sealion, (well, maybe!!). It was certainly cold but that was to be expected.
Today we stopped at Puerto Chacabuco. . The way in was via the fjords and this was a wonderfully scenic approach with snow-capped mountains and narrow channels. The town itself was rather small and disappointing being the major salmon farming and freezing town of a few hundred inhabitants in the area. We walked around the town and to a rather fine hotel on a rise above the town. We were followed for a long way by a rather down-at-heel dog who needed a very good wash and brush but was very cute and had those appealing eyes which said, when we arrived back at the tender to take us back to the ship "You can't leave me here", but, of course we had to and we did but he was obviously very disappointed.
We were invited to a cocktail party in one of the owners' suites with Harvey and Barbara from California. They are a wonderful couple who are very engaging company. Harvey is a constant wise-cracker who keeps everyone in stitches and his wife of 55 (count 'em fifty five!!!!) years, Barbara, is an equal match. Their suite was gorgeous and we had a great time there. Then it was off to the Grand Dining Room for dinner which was also excellent.
I have a 7.15 a.m. take off to go glacier visiting tomorrow, so it is to bed early tonight.
